Saturday, March 12, 2011

Reason #5,673 why I'm stupid

I'm beginning to think that this blog is mostly about how I'm an idiot. I'd say retarded, but given that is no longer pc, I'll go with the more positive term of "special needs".

I went to Bishop Thursday night to hang out with the adorable Jackson girls + Lauren.  Jeff was in town so I went over to Andrew's house to hang out with him and his Denver/Fort Collins friends and drink a beer and watch a horrible Lisa Rands video.  The video only lent support to my general policy of "no climbing videos."  They are bad bad bad. I guess they're not that bad if you put them on mute and play your own music, but who has the energy for that?

ANYWAY, the next morning we drove out to the Buttermilks and I followed the boys up the "ridge solo" behind the Iron Man Traverse.  It's like 5.3 or something. That went all fine and dandy until the down climb where I attempted to "sack up" and jump across a small chasm to another boulder.  I've faced these situations before and always been kind of chicken, so this time I was going to go for it.  I went for it alright. As it turns out, the boulder is steep and grainy where my feet landed.  Instead of the sick pro-sticky rubber landing I was hoping for, my feet flew out from under me and I had a Vertical Limit moment where I snagged the boulder just in time to avoid sliding down the glacier to my death. Just kidding. But I WAS just hanging on to the top of the boulder with my hands.  It scared the shit out of the boys.  They just stared at me, though I think I heard an "oh shit!"

Something was definitely wrong with my ankle, and I had to take a moment to assess how fucked up it really was. You know how it takes you a minute sometimes to realize how injured you really are?  Yeah, that's what it was like.

I bailed on the rest of the "official downclimb and instead walked down through some boulders and met up with them on the other side.  I did get to watch this crazy skier dude do some flips off of a rock and land in the sandy gully. Seriously. It was CRAZY. and AWESOME.

So actually my ankle didn't feel that bad and I kept climbing a little and wandering around the buttermilks with the Jackson girls, who were immensely adorable and entertaining.  I forgot what it was like to be a beginner and TRY SO HARD.  It's inspiring.

We were done by about noon...the ankle was hurting and the Jacksons were tired.  So we wandered into town, went shopping at Wilson's, and then drove out to see the pupfish, where I cracked the front bumper of my car because we drove the right wheel through a ditch that I didn't see. Another notch in the stupid belt.

Either way, the fish were great and it was hot and sunny, so we drove back to the park and Maki came by and chatted, and then we got beer at Whiskey Creek. After that we moved over to Maki's to hang out with her and James and Stu.  I brought James his favorite cookies - cherry chocolate chip, so I was stoked to give them to him (and celebrate that Maki got into grad school and James sent his project!) It was a good trip.

At that point I was definitely limping pretty badly, but I still held out hope for climbing in the gorge Saturday.  Though this hope was definitely fading quickly. Maki gave me an ace bandage and some 800mg ibuprofen.  People were starting to dote on me, and look concerned, which was kind of nice and kind of went against my denial that I'd really done my ankle in. I think it's because I'm limping pretty badly and generally just look pathetic.  It's hard to walk for sure.

I also realized that I must have slammed my hip into the wall because I have a big bruise on my right hip bone.  And lots of scratches on my forearm.  I'm glad I stuck it with my hands at least!

Fast forward to this afternoon and I'm home. It would have been stupid to try to hike a pack down into the gorge and climb.  I'm going to Europe in two weeks and sorry all you gorge lovers - the gorge ain't worth it.

My ankle isn't that swollen, so I think it will feel better in a few days, but it still hurts like a BITCH.  I do wish that I had crutches though.  I might go to student health and rent them or something.  I can walk around, but it's damn slow and it hurts.

Sunsh is coming over to dote on me tonight and help me grocery shop and do shit around the house, and Karrigan looked for crutches for me, but to no avail.  It's times like these when I realize that I have generous and giving friends, and it warms my heart.

Hopefully it feels better in a few days. I really think that it will.  Super bad ankle sprains always swell up dramatically, and that's not happening. I may have just hyperextended it.

Jeff - this is ALL YOUR FAULT!! But it was still great to see you :)

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Cloudy outside, Sunshine inside

No climbing outdoors this weekend.  The conditions are probably decent, but I don't want to pay for the gas to get to Jailhouse, and Gold Wall is wet.  Instead I went to the gym and bouldered with some friends.  I did well!  At least for not really bouldering too much.  I did a couple of 4s and 5s. If I can do a V5, that's pretty good for me. I think that tomorrow I'm going back to do a 4x4 with Sarah D. That is if she decides to go...

After that Sunshine came to Davis and we went to the farmer's market for Pig Day. It's true. There were people dressed up as pigs and lots of pig flavored things to eat and also little piggies to pet. So if you ever want to hold a pig while eating bacon, Pig Day is the day to do it. Or you could buy a farm.

The pig hunt at the ranch might still be on before I go to Europe, though I'm not counting on it. Only a few more weekends to go!  But it would be cool to shoot some bacon. Pigs are so destructive in California too. I don't feel bad about killing them and eating them.  I just don't want to butcher them. Fortunately, since the property belongs to my family, my guests will do the butchering. I don't really want to butcher a pig without watching someone else do it first.

In other slaughterhouse news, I was chatting with the guy who shares the garden plot near me, and he said that he's going to start raising rabbits to eat.  Rabbits breed...like rabbits. You can eat them after 40 days, and they have induce ovulation, as soon as they have sex they ovulate. They can get pregnant almost right after they give birth and they take 30 days to gestate. Seven kits per litter. There will be two does and a buck. That's a lot of rabbits.  Anyway he said I could go in on his rabbit ranch if I helped out with feeding and watering occasionally. Fine by me. Plus he does the slaughtering. He had a job as an undergrad in TX slaughtering bunnies...I'm guessing he's good at it. I don't think I've ever eaten rabbit before.  He says it taste like chicken.

Sunsh and I were walking back from the farmer's market today and thought up one of the best blog ideas ever, though it would probably have to be anonymous to truly be honest and make it funny.  "Stupid shit my ex boyfriends said."  Man oh man.  She has some good ones, and so do my friends.  I've never dated a guy who said stupid shit, so I can't contribute.  Damn. I'll have to live vicariously through my friends.

Friday, March 4, 2011

The latest to-do list

In an attempt to up my productivity and get shit done, here is my latest to-do list that EXCLUDES the labwork and data analysis that I need to do (which is a whole other long-ass to-do list)


  1. Apply for grad studies travel award and make sure that my advisor sends in his letter of rec - March 15
  2. Apply for AFS travel award, submit abstract for September Seattle meeting - March 11
  3. Call dude from Vegas to ask for Nevada samples and figure out what I NEED first (more complicated than it sounds) - today
  4. Call dude from Oregon to ask for Oregon samples
  5. Read through final minor revisions and SUBMIT THIS FUCKING MANUSCRIPT ONCE AND FOR ALL OH MY GOD. - March 10
  6. Apply for TA positions 2011-2012 (backup plan) - unsure of deadline
  7. Apply for Sac State lecturer positions (backup plan B) - unsure of deadline
  8. Taxes - fax my crap in so that someone who knows what they are doing can figure it out for me. Federal job + grad student + whatever investments my parents made = confusing tax return. - before March 26
  9. Book a rental car in Spain


Wow that doesn't seem that bad wen I write it down like that.  I like the colors.  This is good.

In other news I am STOKED OUT OF MY DOME for Spain.  Chatting with Ethan definitely ups the motivation level. I even went to Pipeworks in the AFTERNOON yesterday! I never do that.  I pretty much only ever go Tuesday mornings super early or weekend mornings when the crags are wet. But I need to get stronger and fitter for Spain so that I can CRUSH BUNNIES. Unfortunately/fortunately, Ethan has been climbing with some of the other best climbers in the world.  So there is a very high chance that when I get there I'm going to feel like the worst climber in the world.  Which is unfortunate.  On the other hand, it's got to be better than my first two trips to Spain. Yeah. It's going to be awesome. I'm super super psyched.

Monday, February 28, 2011

Holy SHITBALLS!

oh. my. god.  Holy shit I don't think that I'd be that into this...

This is amazing too.

Saturday, February 26, 2011

Reason #1,642 why many pro climbers are idiots...

"I love rock climbing, but I don't like rock climbers" - a rep for a climbing company.

I've often thought how some pro climbers are lucky that they are good at rock climbing, because they generally suck at most other things...such as...social skills.

Below is a story that my friend James wrote.  When I heard about this I was kind of pissed.  I get my panties in a twist when I think about the culture of valley rock climbers.  It's a ton of dick-waving and senseless risk-taking.  Don't these people have mothers or people who care about them? Don't they care about anybody else but themselves? Ostensibly, no. It's like Lord of the Flies + neglected little boys acting out for attention + testosterone-fest. It's one thing to have your acting-out phase and do mildly stupid shit, it's another altogether to never grow out of it and put other people at risk. Sad.

As I get older I have less and less tolerance for this sort of thing. I think that the climbing culture (and society at large) gives people the "personality pass" as Shannon calls it. For some reason, if you climb hard (or you are beautiful or famous), you can be a dick and people still think you're cool.  If there's any proof that evolution - cultural or otherwise - is not progressive, this is it.

James took it down, so I'm posting it here, with the exchange between James and Cedar at the bottom. Nobody gives a shit what I say or reads this, so why not? Idiots.

Oscar Wilde wrote, “A true friend stabs you in the front.”  Stanley should have seen it coming.  If he didn’t die on El Cap, he might actually kill Cedar in retaliation.

Over a decade ago, Cedar studied for his undergraduate degree at Humboldt State.  Sean “Stanley” Leary tried to attend school in the Nor Cal but ended up at the crag more often than the classroom.  They met each other while bouldering on Moon Stone Beach.  They were young.  They were inexperienced.  It had all the makings of a perfect bromance.
For years the pair climbed together.  They established routes at the Trinity Aretes, a limestone crag an hour and a half to the east of Humboldt State.  They climbed routes in Yosemite together, they smoked weed together, and they were friends.

Then Cedar got sponsored.  Cedar earned the nickname “Magoo” because of his oversized Buddy Holly glasses and his inexplicable ability to be in the right place at the right time.  The North Face wanted to expand their athlete program and Cedar happened to be hanging at the office with Jason “Singer” Smith right when they were looking.  Magoo stumbled into a spot with the team.  One of Cedar’s best abilities is to talk a mean game, a highly desired skill by the marketing types at big outdoor companies.  Slanderously known in his “hometown” crag of Yosemite as the “world’s best 5.11 climber” many people were jealous of Cedar’s new lifestyle.  He worked as the rock climbing media persona for the North Face, representing the company at slide shows, in the magazines, and on a daily basis.  Cedar became a personal brand, traveling across the world on various exotic climbing trips to promote the North Face.

While Cedar traveled and got pictured on big billboards, Stanley rock climbed and became on of the dominate forces in Yosemite free climbing.  With a free link-up ascent of El Capitan and Half Dome in a day, three El Cap routes in a day, and numerous hard free climbs, Stanley was the best unrecognized climber around.  Stanley just needed someone to help usher him into the world of sponsorship.

Cedar arrived in Yosemite after in the late summer after a 4 month hiatus.  He’d been in Australia, Brazil, or somewhere warm with hot chicks and lots of good sport climbing on the North Face’s dime.  The Yosemite Facelift was a perfect opportunity to come back to the Valley, promote the North Face during the annual clean up, and spend some quality time with his friends.

“Here dudely,” Cedar shoved his glasses up his face and handed the rack to Stanley. “I got all the gear.”

Stanley appraised the thin selection of gear below the notorious offwidth of Ahab (5.10b) at the base of El Capitan. “This is the biggest piece I need?” He held up a #4 camalot.  Even from the ground, it looked like it wouldn’t fit.  Lucho, Dean “Bullwinkle” Fidelman, and I all shook our heads.

“I’m gonna make you famous Stanley! It’ll be great.”  Cedar jugged up a fixed line next to Ahab while Stanley pulled his shoes on.  Cedar imagined Stanley was gonna shit himself from the obvious sandbag.  As a matter of fact, the last time Cedar had made a “great” movie was when he conned a young Canadian into climbing a heinous offwidth. The hung over Canuck got his knee stuck half way up the route and shit himself.  Cedar’s movie about the ordeal went viral on the internet, securing his status as a North Face celebrity. 

Stanley seemed less than enthused about the prospect of climbing the route with no or marginal gear.  The day before, he had climbed the Nose of El Capitan in sub 4 hours.  Needless to say he was worked, but he also wanted to help Cedar out.  And there was the prospect that Stanley’s impressive climbing abilities might garner him some recognition. Stanley laybacked up the offwidth, smearing his feet on the smooth glacier polished granite.  He threw a kneebar into the crack, and tried to stick his one big cam in.    It was a sausage in a hallway.


Stanley's section is at 2:30.  There's a cam at the base of the crack that would only help him if he was pysched on smashing into the rock below instead of falling another 5 feet to the deck.

Cedar hung off a rope nearby videotaping Stanley for a short film.  “You can get it in if you go five feet higher,” Cedar said.  Stanley trusted his friend and moved up the crack.  He pulled the camalot out again.  At forty feet off the ground, with his feet sliding down the rock, Stanley would die if he fell without getting the cam in.  When he tried to place the pro in, it was again a sausage in a hallway.

“I am going to FUCKING KILL YOU CEDAR!” Stanley screamed. 

“Stanley’s gonna die,” I yelled.

Dean Fidelman, who’s biting wit is unfailing, could only say, “Oh my god!” 

Lucho flicked Stanley’s rope.  He was belaying for no reason. He shrugged. 

“Cedar, you have to save Stanley!” I shouted.

Mason Earle had been scowering the base for booty, cleaning up as part of the Facelift, and watching the junk show. “I can’t stay. This is gonna make me sick,” he said. 

“Hang on dude,” Cedar put away his camera gear. “I’ll save you.” He dropped the rope he was hanging from and flicked it towards Stanley.  Stanley’s knees bent, and he made a four foot horizontal jump to the thin line, swinging across the base of El Cap.  Cedar bounced against the top part of the wall, jostling about with all his camera gear.   When Stanley reached a small stance on Moby Dick, he attached his rappel device and headed back to the ground, visibly shaken. 

“Did you guys see that?” Cedar came down to the ground.  Stanley had mentally drifted to another plane.  A small lizard found its way onto his hand and Stanley stared at the gecko, oblivious to Cedar and the trauma.  Happy place for Stanley.  “I saved Stanley’s life!” Cedar’s chest swelled three inches. 

We gathered all our gear and headed to the Cathedrals to go bouldering.  I shook my head, wondering if these guys were really friends or if they had just grown up together.

Cedar writes:
This piece had potential but reads like a rough draft, and isn't really based in any kind of factual reality.... And it's kind of slanderous... But it's your party....Next time you want to write about me... do me the favor of sending me a draft first....
James Writes
Cedar- It's something I just wanted to write on my blog- not something that'd be good for anything more than that. It is based on factual reality. I was there. Lucho was there. Fidelman and Stanely were both there. Stanley got all pissed about you not using that footage of him on the route. I'm sorry for not being considerate. I can take it down, if you read it and get back to me on it.
Cedar responds:
Just take it down.
Look James... I worked my ass off to get where I'm at, and I resent you harping on this "His best skill was spraying" theme.... I payed my dues a lot more than you have and the way I see it you are in no place to be calling me out time an again on this shit..... It pisses me off and you aren't doing me or yourself any favors... got it? I had my proud moments, give me a little respect....Or Just leave out of your poorly written drivel.


Cedar’s best abilities is to talk a mean game, a highly desired skill by the marketing types at big outdoor companies. Slanderously known in his “hometown” crag of Yosemite as the “world’s best 5.11 climber”
James writes:
I took it down

Friday, February 25, 2011

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Too much to do.

Okay I gotta rant here about all the crap I need to do right now. Maybe writing about it will get my shit organized.

1. First of all I reviewed a manuscript and I have to formally enter my (our) comments into the Journal database.  
2. I  have revisions of my manuscript (we already submitted with major revisions, now there are minor revisions). This is going to involve MORE data analysis and calculating statistical crap that I don't have a good handle on.
3. I'm supposed to be training an undergrad to do some of my labwork for me...so I need to organize a time to meet with her and then be there to train her.
4. I'm taking a science writing class and need to write final drafts of a feature article and a press release.  I don't like the press release. I want to quit it.
5. I need to do my taxes and submit my FAFSA. Annoying.
6. I need to finish up a final draft of the recovery plan and 2 five year reviews for my USFWS job before I go to Europe. This means dealing with people. People slow the process down.
7a. I'm STILL collecting data and troubleshooting my phylogenetics project, and I'm going to need to either get out into the field or get researchers from other universities (Oregon and Colorado) to send me samples that I don't have. Totally annoying.
7b. AND apparently the sequencing company picked up a plate today that I set up yesterday, and they don't understand what is where, which means I probably fucked it up somehow, but I'm out of DNA so I either they run it and I get lucky, or they run it and it fails, and then I need to do the stupid PCR, gel running and extraction ALL OVER AGAIN, which takes a full day.
8. I need to LEARN how to manipulate all of this fucking data. What if, in the end, I don't have enough and it was all a waste of time? What if I don't have enough loci? Do I need another gene region? FUUUUuuucckckkcck. I'm meeting with someone tomorrow afternoon to get some help.
9. I need to apply for this part-time lecturer position at Sac State.
10. I need to apply for a travel award to go to AFS in Seattle in September.
11. One of the populations for my pupfish project is unusable because we may have sampled individuals twice. My collaborator says "oh, but you'll know if you genotype the same individual, right?" I theory, but not in a SUPER INBRED FUCKING POPULATION.  Some fish have the EXACT same genotype. Resampling JACKS up the statistics. So we need to get out there and start from scratch with this population and throw out the old samples and all the data that I collecgted from them.
But these fish are DORMANT in the WINTER. Balls.
12. My house is a disaster area. I need clean clothes. I need new socks.
13. At some point, I need to FUCKING GRADUATE. And deal with my parents and possibly my grandma and uncle who are going to have no clue about what to do for graduation weekend. Please please please don't make me be a tour guide.

All this after going all day on Tuesday from cross training from 7-8am to Sacramento to work for 4 hours, then back to campus to attend a class. Then spending 10 hours in the lab yesterday, then waking up today at 5:30am to go to Sac for a X-training class, then coming back to campus for a meeting to discuss a manuscript, and then driving to the Farm in Putah Creek to do a SLEWS field day and lay irrigation lining with some highschool students. We got rained on.

Okay now I'm going to go over this list and italicize the things that I need to do before the end of the weekend. That seems somewhat more manageable.

Must triage. must triage.

What I REALLY want to do is keep eating spoonfuls of peanut butter and chocolate chips.  Doesn't that sound way better?