Damn it feels good

I mentioned that I did a couple of .12ds at Column recently, but I finished up a third at Donner today: Bronco.  The other ones were cool, but this one is a lot more meaningful. I worked it a bit last fall and fell at the top twice before it dumped snow.  Last Thursday I went to Donner for the first time since then, worked out the moves again, gave it another go, and vowed to come back.  Jackson and I were pretty lazy over the weekend (plus weekend crowds suck), so we went back up there today and I did it second go.

Total surprise, and it felt SO GOOD.  I haven't felt that good after a send in a long time!  Theres's something to be said for being attached to a route.  I was definitely attached to that one.

Another cool thing was that I did it in good style.  I fucked up a few things, hung in there, and then fired the crux.  It felt great.  And NOW (not after the sends at Column), I'm allowing myself to think "wow-I'm really fit right now."  Finally... a little bit of confidence.  I'll take it.  I'll also say this - endurance and ability to recover goes a long way.  I could completely get my heart rate down at every rest, and oh boy do I ever find rests.  Awesome.

Discoveries: new things and old things

So it is smoky.  Extremely smoky.  Thinking that the smoke was mostly restricted to the valley, I drove up to Tahoe with Kuan to meet Lydia and this other dude to climb at Star wall yesterday.  Well, it was so smoky that we couldn't even see Donner Lake.  It was unbelievable!  And I just read Justin's blog and it's smoky in Yosemite Valley as well.  I talked to my friend Sunshine who lives in Oakland and was driving towards Big Basin.  Yep you guessed it: smoky as hell there too.  You know, I don't mind it too much.  I still climbed yesterday, still did a long bike ride this morning, and I feel fine.  No congestion, no breathing problems.  I guess I'm in the minority though because a lot of people seem to be having trouble.  Oh well, guess I'm lucky in this case.

I discovered a new 30 mile bike loop (I'm sure that everyone who has ever ridden a bike around Davis knows about the beauty of Putah Creek Road, but it was new to me).  Beautiful scenery (through orchards and fields), smooth road, very little traffic.  You can just fly down it.  I want to bike into the coast range at some point next week and do some hills.  Looks like there's a good 40-50 mile loop.  

I also discovered two amazing desserts: Haagen-Dazs chocolate sorbet and coconut sorbet.  They are scrumptious, and you don't feel like you're going to puke up whole cream if you should (ahem) happen to overindulge in things like ice cream.  Of course I up the ante by putting dulce de leche on top. I've always been a toppings kind of girl.

The cool thing about this week is that I've been rediscovering and reconnecting with old friends.  I think I had been "comfortable in my misery" with certain aspects of my life as Kuan astutely pointed out.  When you clear out some of the clutter in life there is more room for new things.

I'll go up to Donner again Sunday and try to redpoint Cookie Mix, which is a fun little route.  Then I'm not so sure what to try next.  At any rate I need to get my ass into the gym to regain lost ground in fitness.  I also started (finally) the IVIG treatment, and I don't feel psychotic afterwards.  So today is over with, and I'll go in Mon-Thurs next week.

By the way, I tried to donate blood the other day and was "deferred" which is a euphemism for "rejected."  Guess they think donating blood will stress an MS patient.  Go figure.  Guess I'll have to be satisfied with donating a bunch of old books and magazines to the infusion center.  I just feel like giving right now...something, anything.

Superhero

This is Pete.  Pete has had the nickname "Super Pete" ever since I've met him, which was a few years ago now.  This is because Pete has an indomitable spirit, tons of positivity, and cranks super hard.  I can't even begin to describe how excellent of a rock climber and human being Pete is.

 This Spring Pete had an accident and lost his foot.  Only a few months later he is already walking around and hopping over boulders with his carbon fiber prosthetic so he can come and support his wife Lydia and get out of the house.

Now Pete is a true superhero.  He has handled his injury with grace and a strength that I can only imagine.  He'll be climbing again pretty soon.

I saw Pete for the first time since April yesterday at Donner.  Pete was there spectating and Lydia and I did a little bit of rock climbing.  We started at Snowshed Wall and warmed up on Little Feat and then headed over to Star Wall.  I'd never been to Star Wall since everyone from Sacramento is always going up to Snowshed and staying at Snowshed.  I am sick of Snowshed, but Star Wall is amazing.  What a beautiful wall!  And what a nice place to hang out as well.  I tried Cookie Dough (or Cookie Mix or whatever) which is a .12a over on the left.  I did pretty well up until the small holds, which are difficult to feel right now.  Did all the moves on the first attempt, but I was knackered for the second go.  Oh well, at least I'm climbing again!  It's amazing how happy climbing makes me.  Not only do I get to move my body and be somewhere pretty, but I get to hang out with cool people.  I ran into Cynthia, Paul Crawford and his wife Ella, of course I was with Pete and Lydia, and I finally met Sanam, who I've been hearing about forever.  Hopefully we will climb together soon.

Anyway, I'm so psyched that I am feeling better, am off the steroids, have wonderful friends and family (ok I know I'm being sentimental).  Now if I could only get my Franken-hand back!