So I'm committed to a climbing project for the first time in a while - and a pretty hard one. Bronco at Star Wall.
I went up there yesterday and worked the headwall. I figured it didn't matter that I climbed Sunday too since I just wanted to work the moves. In addition, I hope that feeling tired yesterday will make it feel a lot easier when I'm rested. I'm planning on going back up there on Friday.
Surprisingly, it was hot as shit yesterday. We actually waited around for an hour or two before beginning to climb. Unfortunately the headwall was still pretty hot, and that's the hard part. I guess what they say is true: star wall is good almost year round. The sun bakes it, even on super cold days.
I can make it up to the headwall at this point. You kind of get a rest...I wish it was a better rest than it is. I can kind of get a stem and turn my hips to rest my arms, but it's strenuous on the core/legs. After that it's a big pull to a semi-decent rest, and then it's on until the top. The hardest move is deadpointing to this shitty crimp, getting my feet up and deadpointing to a "jug". Some people skip the last clip and fire all the way to the top. But it's not over after you get the "jug"!! you still have to do these layback moves that are pretty damned hard when you are torched after doing the whole route. Oof. I SERIOUSLY doubt I'll skip the clip, unless it turns out that I fail at several redpoint attempts.
It's probably good for me since I don't usually pick projects that are this hard. I like to stick to easier grades and do things more quickly. At some point though, you run out of local things that are easy/safe/fun/easy to find partners for, and you have to step it up.
So now I just think about the route for two days (I know!). I have to wait to see how I feel on Friday. I think a first real redpoint attempt is in order. God I hope this doesn't end up being epic. Bronco would be a really good send for me.
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