Monday, February 21, 2011

Fun in SF

The weather did not cooperate this weekend, so whenever Jailhouse is out I struggle with a motivation problem when it comes to climbing. I hadn't climbed on plastic in a month or so, but Ethan was game for meeting me at Ironworks.  We spent a few hours there (I sucked, but in hindsight I did a dozen pitches, which isn't so bad). I should be training for Europe, but I'm so unmotivated. It's cold and stuff.

Dinner was in The Richmond at a friend's house, and Jason C. and Caitlin were there, which was cool. I miss Jason on gchat - he is hilarious.  So so funny and quick-witted. He really should blog more for everyone's benefit.

The next day we went to Boogaloo's which is a pretty good breakfast spot. I would not recommend anything with the plantain cake. I had high hopes, but was not impressed. Everything else was good though.  Because finally the weather was amazing, we hiked up to Twin Peaks.  I really love San Francisco. It is such a cool city - there are so many hidden little areas.  I always think of it as a busy place, but when you go up towards the top of the hill there are really quiet neighborhoods.  The plants are out of control too. Just about everything grows in SF.

On the way down we checked out an amazing chocolate shop. The guy was friendly and helpful, and the chocolate was amazing. I definitely need to go back some time. Don't know when.

I also found some bergamot oranges, seville oranges and blood oranges at the Berkeley Bowl West, so I'm psyched to try out some recipes with them.

So that was my weekend in the city. A mini-vacation. I managed to avoid all the mountain traffic THANK GOD.

I haven't had a good rant in a while, but I've been thinking about the issue of exes trying to be friends with each other. More specifically, when the exes were total douchebags and then try to manipulate/guilt trip the douche-bagees into being their friend so that they don't have to feel like douchebag.  A friend of mine is experiencing that right now, and I've experience it as well. The way I see it, it's because the douchebag doesn't want to feel like an asshole, so if the person to whom they were a douchebag forgives them, all is right.  It's such bullshit. If you are an asshole, you should feel like an asshole.  And if you don't like feeling like an asshole, then don't be one. It's pretty simple.  Quit trying to get your ex to forgive you so that you can salve your own ego.  Even if they do forgive you, you are still an asshole, and an even bigger one than you were before.

Well, at least I don't slander as much as some people

This is hilarious.

I really don't have anything to add.

Monday, February 14, 2011

Solidified

I bought a plane ticket. Yes I did.  I'm flying into Madrid on March 27, meeting up with Ethan and we are getting a rental car and then going wherever the conditions are good.  Then I'm flying to Kos on April 9th and staying in Kalymnos until the 24th of April.

Wow I am so so psyched.  It gives me a little more motivation when I'm flailing at Jailhouse. I gave up on Alcatraz - too hard, and got back on Haul of Justice - also too hard.  The rain will probably get Haul wet, so then I'll get back on Alcatraz.  I've been trying to finish the day on Fugitive, but it's effing hard too.  I did reredpoing my first 5.12 ever, which was pretty cool.  A hold broke on Soap on a Rope. Very sad. I clipped off of that hold. It had a good run (especially for Jailhouse).

I won a (very informal) baking competition today at USFWS. My entry was red velvet whoopie pies. Actually I entered two things, but the whoopie pies won. It's funny because I made them last night after getting back from Jailhouse, but I thought that they were ugly, so I woke up super early and made raspberry-rose almond macarons (they were sort of like this).  I didn't intend to make something else, but I couldn't sleep, so why not. I thought they were pretty divine, but people like traditional stuff I guess. The macarons looked weird - they were super pink!  But delicious!

I've been thinking a lot about what I'm going to do when I finish, which will probably be in August.  I "taught" a one-time seminar for freshmen interested in getting experience with the biological sciences on campus, and both Karrigan and Mariah told me that I did a really good job...I've been wondering if I should get some teaching experience just to see if I might like it or not.  Then at least I will know. In addition, the proposal I wrote for continuing research on one of my projects is the top priority for funding for CDFG.  Encouraging, but certainly no sure thing. The state or the University can (and has) frozen funds somewhat (seemingly) capriciously.  With no sure funding, I need to find another source of funding if I want to continue to do research.  Alternatively, my boss at USFWS mentioned the (remote) possibility of getting a half time position there when I finish, which would be good because then I could teach a class (there are openings for lecturers at Sac State), and then work part time and have benefits and all that rad stuff. I might give a guest lecture in Rick's class at American River College before I commit to teaching an entire quarter...I think that teaching is going to be a ton of work.  Then again, you get entire summers off, and a month in December. That rules.

I just don't know. I also emailed a researcher in Fort Collins about possible post-doc or research opportunities...we'll see where that goes.  I like research, but I don't like the publish or perish ethic, and I don't think I want to be a faculty at a big University. I don't want to be dependent on soft money either. My advisor makes it work, but he's a special case, and he doesn't do research or teach. He spends most of his time finding funding and being an advisor.

Ugh it stresses me out. Doors always open, it's the having faith part that I'm really bad at.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

if you've ever used the term "missing link"

If you've ever used the term "missing link" and referred to something extant (living during the present), please don't ever do it again. For that matter, if you've ever used the term missing link to refer to an ancient form of a species on a planet today, just stop, ok? Evolution doesn't work like that, and you should know it. Now you do.

Monday, February 7, 2011

Sunday, February 6, 2011

It's been a while

I haven't blogged in a while because...well, I haven't. Also I wanted to have something to talk about, other than the standard.

So I sent Cell Block at Jailhouse today, a .13a.  It's cool that I did a .13a, because that grade is hard. It's also cool because now I don't have to feel like I'll never do another one again. It's even more cool because I did the first one right before I got diagnosed. So to do another one almost 3 years later is further validation of how far I've come.

The route is ok, but not awesome.  I tried Alcatraz (.13b!!) and made it up to the first crux and lowered, and then went up Fugitive for the first time since 3 years ago.  That route is still so so rad. I'm not sure what to project next. I'm leaning towards trying Alcatraz a few more times until I decide if it's do-able or I should give up, and then working on the Fugitive extension if it's the latter. Hard to say...one thing I can predict is that I'll be hanging on a rope more and rock climbing less the next few times I go out there. Fun times in project-ville. I'd also like to go to Gold Wall and do some of the routes I haven't done.

Other than climbing at Jailhouse again (now that it's dry), it's been a lot of working, a string of visitors staying over (including Frazier!!), and sunny weather.  I'm glad to be reminded of why I like California - it was pretty grim for about 6 heinous weeks.

And meyer lemons. pounds and pounds of meyer lemons from my advisor's tree.  Meyer lemon gelato, lemon bars, lemon meringue tart, lemon-baked tofu...lemons are coming out of my ears. It's been a banner year for citrus. There are orange and mandarines and grapefruits and pomelos and lemons dripping off of trees all over Davis.  Yet another reason I like California.