Thursday, March 26, 2009

Indian Creek update

Lot's of stuff to write about - 

OK: On Friday Jeremy, Flint and I went to Way Rambo.   I put 2 burns on Slice and Dice, one on toprope and one on lead.  No sends.  To warm up I almost sent Way Rambo on TR, which isn't so bad for a warmup burn.  Jeremy sent Slice And Dice, which was pretty cool.  After Way Rambo, we drove over the to Optimator Wall, where I belayed Jeremy on Annunaki, toproped it, and then led Soul Fire, a climb that would be really awesome if it weren't for the pillar next to it that you can almost always bail onto.  Which I did.

The next day, B-Rad and Katie from SLC came down, and we met them up at Second Meat Wall.I toproped everthing except the last route of the day.  Both Flint and Jeremy sent T-bones, and I TRed it clean.  Did Tube Steaks tomorrow and At Your Cervix to warmup, and then got on Family Home Night, a solid 12 climb with lots of purple and green camalots.  Naturally, I got worked on the purple section, though I think I figured out some sort of finger-stacking shuffle to make my way up the splitter.
After that I led Sesh One Cooking, and was fairly disappointed to whip in the green camalot section.  I'll blame it on being tired.  Blah.

Took two rest days, which was spectacular!  I even got a hotel room.  Hey, I got a job, I don't have to always live in the dirt right?

Drew showed up Monday night, and we climbed with this crusher named Joe at the Cat Wall because the weather went from sweltering to freezing.  I warmed up on some unnamed 5.10, which is super fun, and then led King Cat, got worked, and then toproped it, and STILL got worked!  I think that the "crux" move of pulling over the roof is easier than the roof itself, which is heinous cupped hands.  Plus this section in the middle that I worked out some arm-bar/fist action in.  It's HARD!!  Shannon - you are a BEAST!!  After that, I watched Joe flash Burl Dog, super proud, and then TRed Kool Kat, and then we went over to do Wild Cat, which was awesome!  Except I ended up aiding through the .5 splitter section.  It was pitch 6 and I just didn't have the energy to try hard.

Wednesday we went to The Wall, a place where I had never been before.  There are only 6 routes described in the guidebook, but the place is stacked.  Drew and I warmed up on a 5.10 called "The Trial", and then Drew TRed a 5.10 thing called something-or-other-Pink-Floyd-themed, and then I flashed Pigs on the Wing, and stellar thin hands crack.  STELLAR!  It's my favorite pitch in IC so far.  Joe impressed us all by onsighting Learning to Fly, a splitter overhanging yellow alien finger crack, and then I went back and led the something-or-other-Pink-Floyd-themed route to end the day.

Today we are resting, which is good because the Creek is covered in snow.  The weather is supposed to clear, but I suspect that it will still be cold.  That's ok - there are a lot of routes to do that are often too hot to climb on this time of year.  

Not sure what we are going to do tomorrow, but we will be chasing the sun for sure.

Photos to come.

Oh yeah, for some reason I keep running over shit with my car.  Last week I ran over a pot of leftovers and my completely-full aquatainer.  yesterday I ran over another gallon of water and my pack.  I thought everything was ok, but apparently the LCD screen on my camera is broken.  FUCK.  I think it can still take pictures though, so maybe when I get back to Davis I can get the screen fixed if Circuit City hasn't gone out of business yet.  DRAT!

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