Monday, May 17, 2010

Greece, Donner, and the Gulf Coast oil spill

So not much angsty is happening here these days, and for that I'm grateful.

I've been sending cookies to people, working  in Sacramento, getting my shit together to finish my PhD, thinking about the future, climbing at Donner, and thinking about a fall trip.

Alan and I briefly discussed going to Greece in September, but I've lived long enough to know that any trip that far in the future is a long shot.  However Greece is at the very top of the places I'd like to climb, and if he said he could go, I'd make it happen with work/school, etc.

I've had some guests come and go. Maki has come through a couple of times, sometimes with Wesley, sometimes without.  She's schedule to come back and stay on Thursday and stay for the night.  Our tradition is to go get sushi...hopefully she won't eat too much and lay on her back on my floor groaning for an hour afterwards like she did last time.  I told her so!

Joe came through and stayed a night on the way to the Valley to do Golden Gate.  We'd talked about climbing at Star Wall up at Donner on his way home, but the weather looks iffy (wtf is up with the crazy un-Californian weather btw?!).  I'm pretty psyched on this route called Penguin Lust at Donner right now.  Roadcut is better early and late season because it roasts in the sun...Shannon and John and I (and Townsend the weekend before last) have gone up and I've worked Penguin Lust and they've worked Transmognifier.  I'm in love with Penguin Lust.  It's soooo good.  Cool pockets and crimps on a vertical/slightly overhanging face. And looong.  It's a bit crumbly at the top though, and a bit spicy right off the deck.  I need to get a stick clip so I can hang the second draw. Other than that I think I'd be fine with hanging the draws.  Such a great route.

I'm thinking about going down to the Gulf coast to help out with the oil spill. The FWS sends around emails for workers to go down and volunteer.  I think I'll do it if it counts as hours for my SCEP job...otherwise I don't think I could make it happen. It would be a 2 week stint.  I'm going to talk to my supervisor about it tomorrow.  In general he's very supportive of me using the service to get as much experience in whatever way that I want as possible, which is awesome. It might be because I give him delicious cookies.

I've been very happy to stay at home lately (other than climbing and work). It's so nice not to compromise, and not to deal with superfluous relationships.  It feels very cozy to have time to myself right now. I'm enjoying the time to think, work at home, bake, cook and ride my bike.  I made an espresso black-bottom pie in a chocolate chip cookie crust yesterday and shared it with the lab. I got an email from a married lab mate saying it's the best pie he'd had in a while and asking me if I believed in polygamy. I told him WAKASAGI! Ah fish humor. It never gets old.

As far as biking, I've made a short-term goal of 60 miles a week, which is only about 4 hours.  I'd like to up it as the season progresses to 75 and then 100.  The only problem is that it makes me tired for climbing.  I guess if I kept up the mileage my body would get used to it, but it sucks climbing when you're tired and having sub-par performance.

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